Thursday, 20 November 2014

Product Review: Deborah Lippman The Cure Cuticle Cream

Available at Sephora for $29.00 CDN
Their description:
What it is:
An ultranourishing formula that repairs cuticles. 

What it is formulated to do:
This creamy product returns softness and moisture to dry cuticles with a patented combination of soothing, luxurious raspberry stem cell extract, red algae, shea butter, sodium hyaluronate, and vitamins A, C, and E. This powerful treatment offers immediate relief from roughed-up cuticles and offers long-term protection from dryness with daily use. 

What it is formulated WITHOUT:
- Parabens
- Sulfates 
- Phthalates 

Their instructions:
-Massage a small amount onto each nail and the surrounding cuticle area. Apply frequently throughout the day to maintain softness and prevent dryness. 
-For extra pampering, apply Cuticle Oil to soften and hydrate, then follow with The Cure to deeply condition, nourish, and protect while sealing in moisture. 
-Allow to penetrate overnight for baby soft cuticles by morning. 
-For beautifully groomed hands, use Cuticle Remover and Cuticle Oil in your weekly cuticle care regimen.

Confession: The one really bad beauty habit I can't seem to rid myself of is cuticle abuse. I'm one of those people who is constantly twitchy, stressed and craves doing something with their hands. The something I tend to do when I'm thinking through a problem, is picking at my cuticles and sometimes biting (I know, criticize, I deserve it). My cuticles tend to look ragged almost all the time and I have tried dozens of different products trying to repair them. This cream, which I like to call my cuticle mortgage (30 dollars in Canada, for cuticles....but I fork it over), is the only thing that works in one application.

Every other product I've tried requires at least a few days of constant re-application and enough personal discipline on my part not to go at my cuticles and render my efforts useless. This stuff, one application and within 10 minutes my cuticles look like new no matter what I've been doing. The effect is so addictive that I actually find myself way less tempted to pick at my cuticles after application.

  1. Water: A water based cream... naturally
  2. C12-20 Acid Peg-8 Ester: An emulsifier made of several chemically bonded saturated fatty acids
  3. Butylene Glycol: This is chemically classified as a solubilizer, it's added to cosmetics to keep textures consistent and consistently slippery and easy to apply
  4. Hydroxystearic/Linolenic/Oleic Polyglycerides: This is our workhorse, similar to lanolin in it's emolliency and barrier protection. It's a polymer made from several different types of triglycerides and skin with an impaired barrier function (like my ragged cuticles) benefits immensely from application. Concentration is probably between 5-10%
  5. Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter: Off course, you could use pure shea butter, which I frequently do when the pocketbook feels light. It will still condition and protect cuticles, but I don't find the effect nearly as efficient as applying this cream just once.
  6. Coco-Caprylate/Caprate: an ester of coconut fatty alcohol, caprylic and capric acids which has a lot of glide, similar to siicone

  1. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: silky feel emollients
  2. Glyceryl Stearate: emulsifier, occlusive
  3. Cetyl Alcohol: emulsifier, emollient, thickener
  4. Niacinamide: Vitamin B3, probably one of the most beneficial skincare ingredients available. This is probably well below 1% concentration though, so likely  contributes little to nothing to my cuticle rejuvenation
  5. Glycerin: humectant, draws and binds water to the skin
  6. Cyclopentasiloxane: light feel silicone which evaporates quickly to leave a velvet finish
  7. Phenoxyethanol: preservative
  8. Potassium Cetyl Phosphate: highly effective emulsifier
  9. Saccharide Isomerate: humectant similar to compounds found naturally in healthy skin
  10. Carbomer: thickener
  11. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract: Scent
  12. Ethylhexylglycerin: Preservative which is often used in lieu of parabens 
  13. Panthenol: Vitamin B5, conditioning agent...this is a very low concentration
  14. Tocopheryl Acetate: Stable form of Vitamin E
  15. Sodium Hydroxide: yes this is lye, at this concentration though it doesn't do anything but adjust pH
  16. Dimethiconol: silky feel silicone
  17. Disodium Edta: preservative, chelator
  18. Fragrance: A pretty smell
  19. Chondrus Crispus Powder: Irish Moss, a claims ingredient
  20. Buteth-3: solvent
  21. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate: gentle form of Vitamin C, very antioxidant 
  22. Sodium Hyaluronate: The most powerful humectant available, hyaluronic acid
  23. Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate: stabilizer which prevents color and scent from oxidizing
  24. Retinyl Palmitate: Vitamin A
  25. Peg-8: emollient
  26. Citric Acid: pH adjuster
  27. Sodium Citrate: the sodium salt of citric acid, pH adjuster
  28. Tocopherol: Vitamin E
  29. Rubus Idaeus Leaf Cell Culture: This is a raspberry extract/ claims ingredient
  30. Tributyl Citrate: plasticizer
  31. Ascorbyl Palmitate: another form of Vitamin C
  32. Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture: claims ingredient
  33. Ascorbic Acid: another form of Vitamin C 
  34. Yellow 5 (Ci 19140 ): colorant

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